Aromatic and awkwardly angular; nervous and like the label there are goosebumps. . . peppermint and crushed ants day one, leather boots day two. .

Holy haematuria. . . or more politely, a cloudy salmon pink sunset / Chiselled nose - ginger spice, musk sticks, skin, glue and hint of mouse / Grip and flesh in the mouth, dry, savoury, burnt caramel bitterness.

Tasmania. 12.5%.

A super nose - a floral, raspberry punch which grows more bloody, stinky and profound with each hour. Curry leaf and stems, a nose with a long shadow. . . Velvet and sarsaparilla. . . Complete. In contrast it seems short, though lush in the mouth. . . A tadpole in shape. 91-94, the nose especially is exquisite.

A full moon in summer. . . vanilla and Port, rum and raisins; lush, creamy, warm and disarming.

Beechworth. Cork. 13.8%.

A old school butterball. . .

Familiar and comforting. Butterscotch and grilled peaches, white pepper, sunshine in a glass. Thick, ripe, lush; almost like sipping apricot nectar. Almond meal, macadamia and marzipan with a thick thread of playful acidity. Archetypal. 92-93.

Cork (still). 12.5%. South Gippsland. Victoria.

Because it's sealed with a cork I feel compelled to start with the word - Clean. A wine with super acidity. . . Acacia, citrus and slate on the nose. . . sharp and primary. . . if I were lazy, I'd call it mineral. . . Burnished and bruised in the mouth; surprisingly old and wizened for a two year old. . . apple and pear, peanut skins. . . acidity with a rolled grapefruit edges. . . Yes, mostly, especially if you like hard and acidic chardonnay.

Yarra Valley. Diam.

Stone, pollen and pepper more than fruit. 12.5% but feels larger and warmer. Almond meal and freshly laundered woollens. . . A salty sour sting and an impression of weight and thickness on the tongue.

A worthy chardonnay - if I thought in numbers, I'd give it an 89-90, an interesting nose - a hint of smoulder and spice, the fruit (honey dew) plays second fiddle. . . Good shape and heft, but missing some tension and X factor, the back half meanders. . .

Vermentino, but not as you know it. Skin contact / wild yeast / ceramic eggs / time on lees / minimal sulphur / no fining or filtration. More bronzed and burnished than expected. . . Salty. More autumn than spring; more grapefruit than lemon. Citrus pith, texture and crunch. Not sure. . .

Cork. Clare. 13.3%.

A shape shifter. . .

Tight and tart to open, raspberry and white pepper, jagged acids and teeth. . . it soften quickly, by the second glass there's less bite and more rose water, spice and meat. . . by nights end even less squeak, the tannins now with a malt smudge.


A modest bottle with much to say. . . flint and florals, acacia and curiously eucalyptus; more typical is the lime and feijoa. A soft but salty kiss, an opening illusion of sweetness, but mostly it's a quivering pulse of mineral green electricity. Excellent but not unexpected.