ceramic, shape unchanged for centuries. Its contents hot and in this case dilute. It’s not the scent that triggers memory and meaning but the thin veil of steam.

I can picture grandparents, parents, aunts and a sister performing a culturally accepted but dated form of tea ceremony.

Prematurely awoken, this is clearly not ready and not nearly as satisfying as it might be in the years to come. Still I had the opportunity and my preferred provider of small goods (The Re Store, Leederville)  still insists on selling this by the front door for $A89.

Five dollars each from the Kyilla P&C stall. Once constructed you can pluck and add your own fresh herbs (parsley or oregano).

Diam sealed. 13.4%. Approx $A100.

My initial impulse was to say Burgundian / Excellent but overpriced / Stone like. . . but that would be too easy and lazy. It's worked and complicated, but at the same time surprisingly restrained. It's more texture than fruit.

North of the Perth, off Alexander drive in amongst the various light industrial workshops is a small retail strip. Blink and it's gone. There's a Polish grocer, a tackle shop, Nandos and a cluster of small Asian restaurants. Phu Vinh seems to be the busiest. . .

The last of a quartet (1+2,3). I've liked something about all of them, but perhaps this being the most recent would be my favourite.

A quiet street, a dark room and serious food. Co-op is the better heeled urban sibling to Dear Friends, and the similarities are obvious. Chef likes to use bricks of salt for presentation and the focus is very much on the local and home made with an emphasis on technique.

When we get sick we regress. We shed responsibility, take to bed and crave comfort, company and clean sheets. It's no surprise that the foods which give the most satisfaction are the simplest and most like baby food. For me it has got to be a bowl of very plain congee.

A half bottle before the start of another school week. It's more approachable than its more esteemed and expensive sibling. It's fresh and new and an odd amalgam of pert and plump. Stewed berries, especially raspberry, it's mostly clean but there's a welcome suggestion of animal and hide.

Day 1 of the Kyilla farmers market. Plenty of families and children and a palpable energy and happiness. They even sell a village olive oil made from local North Perth (and Mount Lawley) fruit. It's $15 for a small bottle; the oil is quite nutty and peppery.

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