Part of the coastal walk around the Kalbarri cliffs - a sheer drop free of guard rails, I think more than the river gorges, this was my preferred Kalbarri vista.

Warmer and bigger (14%) than the 2014, though there's still something feather light and caressing about the nose. Pretty - rose petal and cherry, spice, sex. . . Slinky and quick with a mineral edge. Dry, alluring and crunchy, the warmth and diffusion arrives late.

Nomacorc. Approx $A52.

I've forsaken the traditional means of creating a risotto, and for the last few years have been using my trusty paella to cook my arborio.

Starting with this recipe, some modifications.

Dice 600g of butternut squash into small 1-2cm cubes. Add 30g of butter and a tablespoon of olive oil to the (paella) pan and then colour the pumpkin, turning only a few times, and only every few minutes, so it can caramelise slightly.

I'd be tempted to hop in the car and drive the 4 hours to Dongara just for these baked beans. At $20 this humble comfort dish was superb. There's a multitude of legumes - chick peas, lentils, kidney, butter and borlotti and the sauce is subtle and beautifully spiced (cumin for sure ? a whisper of cardamon) and unlike the usual over sweet gloop - it has identifiable ingredients - carrots, spinach, spring onion, capsicum, celery and fresh herbs.

The curious Hutt lagoon, sub sea level and seventy kilometres in area, it's a salt pan full of beta carotene producing halophile (salt loving) algae. Rimmed with a salt crust and down trodden samphire, it's otherworldly and perhaps the visual highlight of my most recent road trip.

Five years on, it seems to have changed very little from before. Stinging acidity, curves and texture and a complex multifaceted nose. The nose as always is the most elusive to name - more method than underlying fruit - though there is a green bean and a citrus leaf edge. Savoury oak - spice, fat, vanilla bean and lanolin. . . A jolt of acid and texture in the mouth - flesh, grip, shape and sting. It's very polished and convincing. Yes.

Image: A salt encrusted rock. . .

Full of character and characters, like a junk yard crossed with Greek isle tavern after a hurricane. . . Entirely BYO - unless you are very well prepared expect to drink your wine (purchased from the Thirsty Camel drive through) from a tumbler; the food comes on paper plates though they have steel utensils, there's a DIY salad bar, and you place your orders at the counter and wait and wait for your number to be called over the PA.

That they made from the sea (calcium rich shells in particular) is not in doubt, the only question is how? The easy and superficial answer is they are fossilised trees - many of the rocks have plant like markings and groves.

Prematurely woken, but already suave and rewarding, even for a less regarded vintage. Deep, dark and brooding, it feels complete. Blackcurrant, rose wood, dried herbs, it smells pleasingly fatty. . . Enveloping and expected. . . Lush, rich, seamless and long; tobacco leaf and inky vigour. I'm looking forward to day 2.

Day 2 remains - left overnight in original bottle, no argon - better, unsurprisingly, meaty, long, the tannins more empathic and persuasive.

Three or four hours further north from the last two photos, the waters off Kalbarri seem to have more vigour and violence.