Golden and sticky. A blend of aromatic white grapes - the notable three being riesling, gewürtztraminer and pinot gris. A botrytis nose - almond meal, fabric softener and spice. 74g/l of sugar, thick, and rich, long and lush with a concluding twist of blood orange marmalade.

Mosel. 11%. Off Dry. Cleaner and more conventional than expected. White lily and honeysuckle, the sweetness to come can be found on the nose. Tingling, crisp and crunchy, but the sugar is not paired with a big enough sting. Nectar like and approachable, it's hard to be offended.

A crooked and crumbling cork for this middle aged, cranky, slightly cantankerous Bordeaux. Rigid and upright, I thought it might be softer and more supple. . . Blackcurrant and slightly dank and fusty - fat and dried herbs, graphite. Momentarily soft and chubby, before the structure arrives.

The prettiest label of the year?

This is bottle 121 of 303, coming from a tiny plot planted with the vinous children of Ashton Hills. Like the forest pinot this is more sticks than fruit. Medium at most. Bark and black cardamon, rubbed sticks, spice, stems and sap. If it's possible, it smells held and tight. . . medicinal and dry rather than something lush and beautiful. It is still absolutely evocative and enticing. . .

Terrific label and bottle - a four cusp bottom, like a lucky clover. . . Denmark, Great Southern, Western Australia. As you might expect from the method - skins and musk on the nose, citrus peel too. . . crisp, grainy and a curious milky butterscotch tail. Savoury and satisfying, a big yes.

My go to meal for the last few weeks. . .

Quick and edgy, a gamay with teeth. . . Sap, stem and raspberry. Fast, slightly frontal, crisp and nervy. As I think about it, a curiously brittle wine.

Image: When the neighbour's ginger cat leaves you feathers. . .

I thought for a moment this might be awkwardly skeletal. . . Skin and musk, lush, perfumed, it reminds me most of a Gewurtz. Textured and fleshy, there's more salt than sugar and certainly more meat than bone.

Elsewhere and earlier: More meat and flesh than suggested. Perfumed with musk. Traminer like, lush, more salt than sweet. 

Post script.

Diam seal. Approx $A70. 12.5%.

Is it an orgasm or merely a cultural organisation. . . Grainy, smelling of pheromones and sex, stems more than fruit. Svelte and textured in the mouth, sappy edgy, toothsome. . . ginseng root. I find it delicious and with little effort most of the bottle is gone. . . Yes.

A line up of recent acquisitions, to the fore a lovely bottle of Barossa Shiraz from Sami-Odi. It's a blend of vintages from 2012 to 2015; from what I've read - 11% 2012, 3% 2013, 39% 2014 and the balance from 2015.

As you might expect from the bottle shape, it's full, round and raisin flavoured. Deep and pleasing - warm, lush and generous. It screams now.