The beef shin @ Petition Kitchen. $65 for kilo or more of bone and meat. Shared between three, I'm still suffering for my sins. . .

The 2014 Tim Mayer Cabernet is an aesthetically sweet wine - lovely nose and soft bones for a cabernet. Violets and black currant, and curiously roasted nori. . . maybe it's just DMS. . . enveloping and embracing, soft and supple in the mouth. A serious wine without weight and force. Yes.

$68 from the Petition Kitchen wine list. It's a well conceived document, compact and interesting - the whites are broken into five groupings. To summarise - aromatic, crisp, herbaceous, full and textural and finally the minimal handling oxidative and funky. It's clever and the final grouping doubles as a product warning.

The Gobelsburg is perfectly positioned in group two - crisp, invigorating and zesty. It's an excellent wine - though perhaps a little too prim.

In style and pace this is between the Woori Yallock and the Yarra Junction. A beautifully scented nose - again with a heavy stem accent, but spice too and rose petal. Tight and fast, svelte, flavoursome; some will find it on the wrong side of gangly. I like the speed and slim lines, there's no redundancy. Yes.

The 2012 note.

Ordered from a restaurant wine list. By the time the pictured duck and aubergine had arrived, much of the wine in question had disappeared. From a single Great Southern site and subject to a number of wine making tricks (whole bunches, a night of skin exposure, a portion in new French oak and five months of lees); it's excellent, though I'm not sure I can detect all (any) of the pre bottling methodology.

Pithos Bianco. 100% Grecanico - aka garganega.


2011. Older and cloudy; there's an ecosystem of sediment within the bottle - large half centimetre clumps suspended in the haze. . . A wall of scent - musk and sap, white pepper, green beans, and something struck and sulphurous. Chemistry set interesting. Hard and confronting, WTF. . . rasping tannins, sabre cut acids, and a suspiciously drawn out mouse / sticking plaster finish. . .

Could this be Perth's best roast duck? It's on the other side of the city, and a pre order is required; so an element of premeditation is essential. It's a generous serve, half is missing from the pictured plate, all gobbled within moments. The notable thing is the flesh - still with a blush of pink and generously moist, quite unlike those Northbridge ducks that have been drying out under lights for the whole day.

If I had shaken there would have been a plume of sediment.

It's a curious wine with an orange accent - tart green apples, ginger and glue on the nose. . . very dry and gripping to finish, the wine police would be suspicious. . .

Cathedral square is Perth's newest food destination, the nearby council library is nearing completion and the old Treasury buildings have been refreshed and transformed. No longer a place of secrets, it's now open and a place of pleasure and exploration.

One of the new restaurants is the Petition Kitchen. Partly shiny and new with exposed beams and unfinished plastering juxtaposed with a gleaming open kitchen and fresh engaging staff.

is the word written by the vendor on the opening page. I tried half heartedly to haggle on the price, but the sale had already been transacted in my mind. Emile Peynaud and Tom Cullity - how could I resist. . . The late Tom Cullity was a pioneering West Australian physician, researcher, vigneron and the founder of Vasse Felix - Margaret River's first vineyard. . . The book itself is in wonderful condition and the words clear, crisp and full of authority and certainty.



Stirling Hwy, Nedlands. It's apparent that a lot of thought and love has gone into the food and venue. The room is split, the front understated and stylish, a repeating floral motif on the lights and menu while  at the back an outdoor seating area - warm and tropical with orchids and ferns everywhere.

As to the food, a short menu with some curious (for Perth) ingredients. Where else in the City can you find fresh betel leaf and strands of hot green peppercorn.