A rakish nose - sulphur, curry leaf and kaffir lime; it smoulders and reminds me of the 864 from Oakridge. Energetic and tight, green bean and slate, I thought there was a hint of sweetness, but as I sip at the warm dregs, I'm less sure. Long and modern, with bristles. A+

A belated second look at the 2008 Luke Lambert Reserve Nebbiolo. Each sniff is different, so I'm even more hesitant than usual with my words. Prune and raisins, but fleetingly violets and blackberries. It's even more changeable in the mouth - again raisins and sweet fruit, but matched with zip and leafy tannins.

Last year's meagre garlic harvest has convinced me to change some of my ways, and take advice. . . Plant with the rain and use plenty of blood and bone being the pearls I have taken heed of.

Sweet and bright, and for most of the City well hidden. The dinner room is beautifully lit (though only on Thursday, Friday and Saturday) and the tables mostly large; this is a place to bring family and friends. It exudes an effortless warmth, the customary CBD pressure and aloofness is notably absent.

It's very good, but not unexpected. If I think about it, the greatest pleasure came from the ritual. Picking the bottle, looking at the label (bottle 1316 of 3600, 13.1%, the clone is MV6, the vines are ungrafted, planted in 1995), removing the foil, inspecting the seal (Adrea), using a corkscrew (from Beacon wines on the Upper West of Manhattan, it was raining, I was running and running late), selecting my glass and the pouring and inspecting the wine and the colour in the late afternoon sun.

I'm at the start of another tour of Dogistan. It's a abstemious place, and my day is once again punctuated by fresh air and walking. Early starts, squawking birds (Watterbirds mainly) and a sudden reduction in opportunity. I still think about wine, but the bottles never seem to get opened. . .

I was reading about the neurophysiology of want and pleasure. We want all the time, but are rarely pleased. The pathways and neurotransmitters are different and separate.

The proportions and method might change, but the idea remains constant. Chicken spiked with olives and preserved lemons. I used some home pickled black olives and the remains of last year's lemons

Finely slice one onion and four or five cloves of garlic. Add to a tagine along with 50 grams of butter. Cook at medium heat till clear. Then add one tablespoon of ground ginger, a quill of cinnamon, half a tablespoon of turmeric, a generous pinch of saffron, salt and pepper.

Hat tip to the vinsomniac for bringing this to my attention. We see what we wants to see. . . and so after reading his words (fuck, superb and 94), I scoured the web looking. . . I thought (why I'm not sure) it might be leaner and tighter, but then would this be a white Burgundy if it were rakish and hard?

Diam sealed. 13%. A grand total of three barrels were made. It's quiet to begin, marzipan and almond meal. Large, round and full. Fatty and creamy in the mouth, butterscotch. . .

Blue skies and the tail end of a very mild upper respiratory ailment. I decided to forgo my midweek tipple, though I'm still thinking about wine, and mostly how I seem to have run out of interesting bottles to open. . .

This recipe calls for a combination of cooking modalities.

Start with the pumpkin and carrots - dress lightly in olive oil and then toss with the cumin and coriander seeds that have been pounded with a pestle.

Steingarten Riesling 2011 - Good but not great. Toast and honey, lemon curd. It feels slightly thin and wanting. My single hit and mostly miss relationship with the label continues.

Penfolds Bin 10A - A little more cream and puppy fat than expected. Flint, peach and wheat meal on the nose. Citrus pith and grape fruit phenolics. It's unified and quite good. Earlier.

Bay of Fires Chardonnay 2013 - Quite different in profile - there's more melon and steel, though again citrus and pith.

The starting point was the wonderful Ottolenghi recipe for a Jerusalem artichoke and Swiss chard tart. Being unable to procure the necessary chokes and having a garden full of gigantic and neglected Tuscan kale, I made some changes. Blind baking too is a weakness and so some technical shortcuts. . .

1. Make the short crust pastry. Use a thermomix or similar. 300g of flour, 150g of butter (unsalted and diced into 1 inch cubes) and a pinch of salt.
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