1. A green rub for roast lamb. A small handful of parsley, a few sprigs of rosemary, three or four cloves of garlic and the zest from half a small lemon, salt and pepper. Process (with mortar or machine) into a paste and add a glug of olive oil to loosen. Rub onto a leg lamb which is lying on a bed of chopped onions (3) and white wine vinegar (2 tablespoons) and riesling (250mls, see below for note). Roast for approx 90 minutes at 180 degrees C.

2. Mac Forbes EB04 2012 Tradition Riesling. 12%. Ardea seal.  91 days on its skin. Clear. Perfumed with the scent of musk and something exotic. My imagination says a harem - it evokes the East with its rose petals and orange blossom. If it was colour it would be mauve. . .

have become a weekly ritual, I love the small stores populated by owners serious about their food and produce. There's an energy and chaos that all good markets share, that sense of community and connection and of course passion. I've signed every petition but I suspect it will be vain, each week I read the local rag and grow more certain that the dollar will win and yet another hidden treasure will be bulldozed to be replaced by something sterile and lifeless.

An Australian pork tenderloin (450g), a zip lock bag from Ikea and 200g of salt, 100g of sugar, 3 tablespoons of smoky paprika and a tablespoon of partially crushed fennel. Seal the bag and put in the fridge, turning the bag daily for three days. (I think next time I'll use some crushed garlic and cut out the sugar).

On day 3 remove the pork (mine now weighed 340g), rinse well and then coat with more salt and paprika and then let the meat dry in a cool place for approx 1-2 months.

A Brilliant wine. $A59. I must be growing weak, I had a lot of difficulty in removing the cork and in the end I had to rummage for my Ah-So.

I knew this would be mostly dry, but it does smells sweet - blossom and pollen, freshly struck flint. . . It's like a jolt in the mouth - a sting of purity - it's lean, tight, intense and quite amazing. The gustatory equivalent of a bucket of icy cold water on the face.

Related but of course different is the 2011 Castle Rock Riesling.
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Pretty - petal, violet, mulberry, it's verging on black currant; later smoky smouldering black cardamon. Again, like the 2005, I wonder about the purity, on the tongue, it seems slightly animal and aniseed to conclude - rasping and dry, it seems to resolve and not for the first time, I wonder if I'm jumping at shadows. It's certainly distinct. . . a rose with a patina of dust and grim.

Tasting notes for 2005 vintage.
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400 grams of pearl barley, rinsed and then cooked in a pot of boiling water till puffed and tender (30 minutes). While still steaming mix in some flavoured oil (half a cup of olive oil, a large handful of basil, a clove of garlic, salt, pepper, juice of one small lemon, and a quarter of a preserved lemon rind - processed with a blender) and allow to cool.

I had plans for something larger and more protein based, but I foolishly left my wallet on the kitchen table. Thankfully I had a few gold coins in my pocket. . . This brown wax paper wrapped, luke warm pyramid of rice, with an inoffensively mild sambal was only four fifty.

Somewhere in the middle of the promenade plantée, where the narrow path becomes an open park and Parisians can be seen in various states of undress, I saw a dozen men of various morphology, all in underpants of various colour Greco-Roman wrestling. . .

Of all the recent images I've taken, I think this more than any other captures the spirit of the wine. There's a green edge, pollen too and of course stones and something hard, cool and sculptured. . .

1er cru, 12.5% and sealed with Diam.

Though this is showier and more polished, by a very small margin, I prefer the much cheaper standard release. This is too expected and predictable. It seems to me that high end Margaret River Chardonnay has developed a certain sameness and safeness. There's no doubting the quality and grace - flint and stone fruit, something grilled and struck. Full and slightly broad, augmented and long. The acids have been sculpted and honed, there are certainly no sharp edges to unsettle or excite.

I'm tempted to make my own Taiwanese gwa bao (steamed sandwich buns), it looks fairly simple and as usual, I have ideas and preconceptions which really need to be challenged by reality. I've bought bags and bags of pre made frozen bao from Chinatown and so just at the moment reality/disappointment/kitchen chaos can wait.

I've been fiddling around with different fillings, tonight rare sirloin strips and salsa verde.

Also pictured, half a baby cos heart, grilled and drizzled with aioli.
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