More weight and force than I had expected, though perhaps I'm under prepared and underdone when it comes to Chablis. The last bottle being many months ago. . . Pollen and white flowers; a honeyed edge, though of course any sweetness is fleeting and illusory. Essence like and assertive, green bean and vanilla, it's warm, spirited and carrying more flab than I like.

12.5%. Cork. Approx $A150.

I like the nose - a prickle of spice and pepper, meat with a black cardamon char. It's scrawny and smudged in the mouth though. After a playful opening, it's full and bold, dark chocolate tannins which feel green and awkward.


Image: Nullarbour beads from the Chunky Timber Co.

There's no vintage on the bottle, but I'm assuming it's a 2015. . . It does mention on the back label - To all the pigs in sheeps clothing, I salute you.

100% Harslevelü - a Hungarian grape with thin skin and high acidity. 19 days of skin contact.

An orange wine with bite.

All the markers of the method - mouse and cheese, glue, flint, bruised apple; but also white pepper and leaf. Very sharp and jagged in the mouth - green apple, unripened fruit - malic acid hardness.

Even for a salt tooth, the No Mafia brownie is a winner.

Unrelated housekeeping footnote - a later and smaller than usual olive harvest today. There's plenty of fruit left on the tree, but as the tree grows our appetite for olives seems to shrink. .

One of the excellent plates (pan fried squid $A19) from small and noisy No Mafia in Northbridge. Click here for the original context

14%. Procork. Gift.

I'm not entirely convinced, but in this bottle at least I can see merit. Mostly pinot noir (80, juice no skins) with some chardonnay (20). There's lots of French oak and heft, and though it is unfined and unfiltered it has been heavily modified. Oak barrels, some new, lees stirring and malo. . .

A faint blush. Floral but worked nose - spice, oak, cream - for the first few minutes there's everything but fruit. . .  in time ginger snaps.

Hunter Semillon, 10.3%.

Pure and light. Citrus with green edges; simple, expected, direct and refreshing. Grass and green herbs in the mouth, no stones but lovely length and drive. It's unforced and delicate. . . more late cut than cover drive.

Has it really been a decade. . . Still fresh though no longer primary. Golden with a smouldering terpene loaded nose - citrus and curry leaf, lime oil, white pepper. A touch short but still punchy and spiced.

Image: 1 cup of carnaroli. Related.

Another delicious wine from Craig Hawkins, this time a whole bunch carignan. Leafy and spiced, blackberry and nettles. Full, bright and slippery, it feels bigger than the stated 12.5, though the shape is still flattering and cohesive, firm meaty lingering tannins. Yes.

Easily my favourite meal of the past week, unbalanced and devoid of anything remotely vegetable, the lamb strongly flavoured, the texture - a juxtaposition of crunch and softness.